Travel Log

Details of dates, miles and places stayed. This page will be regularly updated as we travel. One day we might even put a few pictures here.

Note that the GPS coordinates are for where we actually slept – normally the location of the car, sometimes of the hotel window. This may not actually be particularly useful for finding the turnoff for remote spots!

Countries (click to skip to them)

Northern Ireland
Scotland
England
Belgium
France
Italy
Croatia
Montenegro
Kosovo
Greece
Turkey
Syria
Jordan
Egypt
Sudan
Ethiopia
Kenya
Tanzania
Kenya
Uganda
Rwanda
Tanzania
Malawi
Mozambique
Zimbabwe
Zambia
Botswana
Namibia
South Africa

Northern Ireland

001: Sat 25/12/2010
Carrickfergus, Northern Ireland – Dundrod
23/23 miles
Accommodation: Louise’s family

002: Sun 26/12/2010
Day off
31/54 miles (visiting friends)

Scotland

003: Mon 27/12/2010
Dundrod to Edinburgh, Scotland
147/201 miles
Accommodation: Andy’s brother Adrian

004: Tues 28/12/2010
Day off

005: Wed 29/12/2010
Edinburgh – Coldingham
42/243 miles
Accommodation: Andy’s family house

006: Thurs 30/12/2010
Day off

007: Fri 31/12/2010
Day off

008: Sat 1/1/2011
Day off

009: Sun 2/1/2011
Coldingham – Callander
209/451 miles
Picked up 2nd truck from de la Haye workshops in Burnhouses, Duns
Accommodation: Andy’s dad

010: Mon 3/1/2011
Day off
24/475 miles
Playing off road around Callander

England

011: Tues 4/1/2011
Callander – West Perry, England
407/882 miles
Accommodation: Louise’s sister Joanne & family

012: Wed 5/1/2011
Day off

013: Thurs 6/1/2011
West Perry – London
99/981 miles
Met a friend for lunch, parked in a random driveway from parkatmyhouse.com
Accommodation: Friends, Ruth and John

014: Fri 7/1/2011
Day off
Spent most of it chasing problems with our HSBC bank account

Belgium

015: Sat 8/1/2011
London – Brasschaat, Belgium (via France)
217/1198 miles
Accommodation: Andy’s Aunt & family

016: Sun 9/1/2011
Day off
30/1228 miles (est)
Drove to Holland and back

France

017: Mon 10/1/2011
Brasschaat – Flaine, France
581/1809 miles
Accommodation: Friend Robert Kee’s family’s appartment
Met Robert (Simpson, Andy’s dad) and Susan in Brasschaat in the morning, drove all the way to Flaine in the afternoon/evening/night.

018: Tues 11/1/2011
Day off

019: Wed 12/1/2011
Day off

020: Thurs 13/1/2011
Day off

021: Fri 14/1/2011
Day off

022: Sat 15/1/2011
Flaine – Geneva (French side)
46/1855 miles
Accommodation: Porte de Geneve hotel
Walked to Switzerland

Italy

023: Sun 16/1/2011
Geneva – Genoa (Italy)
244/2099
Accommodation: Novotel hotel
Bad news about Tunisia – tourists being evacuated. We were due to get the boat there next

024: Mon 17/1/2011
Genoa
Tunisian airspace now closed, mobs on streets in small towns. Planning alternative route through Europe & Middle East

025: Tues 18/1/2011
Genoa – 100km south of Bologna
157/2256
Accommodation: Wild camping
44.035997N, 11.25247E
Left Robert and Susan in Genoa, next few days just Louise and Andy. First night in roof tent, excellent spot.

026: Wed 19/1/2011
100km South of Bologna – Bologna
71/2327
Accommodation: Citta di Bologna Campsite, North of Bologna
44.52353N, 11.37391E
20 Euros/night, internet extra
Got text from Nathan with details of flights booked to Milan

027: Thurs 20/1/2011
Day off

028: Fri 21/1/2011
Bologna – Lazise, Lake Garda
125/2452
Accommodation: Wild camping in carpark of closed resort. Restaurant beside carpark has free wifi. Lovely views. Wouldn’t work in summer, perfect in winter. Not the only people using carparks in this way!
45.47778N, 10.71878E

029: Sat 22/1/2011
Lazise – Milan – Lazise
250/2702
Accommodation: As above
Picked up de la Haye brothers for 2nd leg

Croatia

030: Sun 23/1/2011
Lazise – Kraljevica, Croatia
280/2982
Accommodation: Wild camping off small road outside villiage. Great spot in old quary, secluded and with plenty of wood for a fire (pre-gathered into a heap in the quary).
45.21726N, 14.64573E
First night below 0C.

031: Mon 24/1/2011
Kraljevica – near Ploce
260/3242
Accommodation: Wild camping in abandoned village (half renovated and re-abandoned). One house appears to be partially occupied, but not while we were there. Perfect secluded spot, plenty of wood for fire.
43.11912N, 17.43247E

Montenegro

032: Tues 25/1/2011
Ploce – Montenegro somewhere
198/3440
Accommodation: Wild camping on small track, almost roadside. Not ideal, but satisfactory.
42.25520N, 19.05653E

Kosovo

033: Wed 26/1/2011
Montenegro to Prishtina, Kosovo
188/3618
Accommodation: Paul and Angela, friends from Glasgow days

034: Thurs 27/1/2011
Day off
Washing clothes, maintenance on trucks, shopping etc.

Greece

035: Fri 28/1/2011
Prishtina – beyond Thesalonica, Greece
215/3833 (est)
Accommodation: wild camping beside farm land and shore of Limni Koroneias lake. Good spot.
near 40.66718N, 23.14662E

Turkey

036: Sat 29/1/2011
Thesalonica – West of Istanbul, Turkey
338/4171
Accommodation: Beachfront campsite. Run down and dirty, but friendly and open. Hot water and free wifi. Cheap, recommended.
41.0720N, 28.16106

037: Sun 30/1/2011
West of Istanbul – Sile
113/4284
Accommodation: Wild camping on coastal track, at top of cliffs. Good spot in winter, might be busy in summer
41.17575N, 29.55078E

038: Mon 31/1/2011
Sile – Ankara
321/4605
Accommodation: Camping in carpark of 4 star hotel. 15 Euros/night. Free wifi, access to showers etc inside, lovely lobby with good bar. Highly recommended

039: Tues 1/2/2011
Ankara – Tarsus
287/4892
Accommodation: Camping in yard of farming family. Tea, toilets and fire provided.
Surf 2 making evil grinding noises. Cannot correctly diagnose. Stopped happening by lunch. Biscuits bought in Italy & not sealed have finally gone soggy – first time in temperatures above freezing.

Syria

040: Wed 2/2/2011
Tarsus – Krac des Chevaliers, Syria
313/5205
Accommodation: La Table Ronde hotel. Camping in carpark $8/car, room for 2 $15, $2 for breakfast. Immediately beside castle, fantastic views. Very friendly staff.
34.75487N, 36.29425E

041: Thurs 3/2/2011
Krac des Chevaliers – Damascus
132/5337
Accommodation: Imad Hotel, Marjay Square. $15/room. Clean and very helpful; owner lent us money for dinner to save us bothering looking for an ATM. Internet cafe across from front of hotel.
33.51289N, 36.29861E

Jordan

042: Fri 4/2/2011
Damascus – Madaba, Jordan
162/5499
Accommodation: Pilgrim’s guest house, St George’s Church complex. Great guest house, 30JD/double room, 15JD to camp in car park. Free (slow) wifi, faster internet cafe across road.
31.71763N, 35.79427E

043: Sat 5/2/2011
Madaba – Wadi Musa (Petra)
153/5652
Accommodation: Al Anbat Hotel, camping in carpark for 5JD/car. Dirty. Unpleasant staff, tried to rip us off several times. Showers not working well, hot water ran out. Camping in carpark at entrance to Petra would be better.
30.32656N, 35.49237E

044: Sun 6/2/2011
Wadi Musa – Wadi Rum
75/5727
Accommodation: Wild camping in Wadi Rum. Stunning spot, sheltered North and South, captured morning and evening sun.
29.65094N, 35.47711E

Egypt

045: Mon 7/2/2011
Wadi Rum – Nuweiba, Egypt
84/5811
Accommodation: Wild camping in common area of closed beach hut resort/campsite
29.17980N, 34.71946E
Arrived Egypt 1am, cleared customs 2:30, bed at 3:30, alarms set for 6.

046: Tues 8/2/2011
Nuweiba – Hurghada
482/6293
Accommodation: Hotel Al Arosa, Hurghada. Lovely owner/manager, Mr Ali. Simple, clean hotel. $15/per person. Good car park, free wifi
27.25376N, 33.80435E
Passed 23 checkpoints from Nuweiba – Hurghada. Military (and militia in 3 cases) polite and friendly.

047: Wed 9/2/2011
Hurghada – Marsa Alam
191/6484
Accommodation: Samaday Hotel, at exit to town on road to Aswan. Friendly young owner, simple and clean. 140LE (~£14:50)/double room. Parking at front, no internet
25.06123N, 34.88505E
Left de la Haye brothers behind, now driving with Lorraine and Frank.

048: Thurs 10/2/2011
Marsa Alam – Aswan
206/6690
Accommodation: Keylany Hotel. Not too clean, but staff geared up for proper travellers unlike most in what is essentially a tourist trap town. Friendly, helpful, fixed prices (110LE for room without bathroom, 140LE with, 160LE including TV etc). Free (slow & unstable) wifi. Lovely rooftop terrace, best breakfasts ever.
24.08954N, 32.89565E

049: Fri 11/2/2011
Day off – first in over 2 weeks.
Morning spent maintaining trucks – new brake pads, greased all ball joints, fixed leak from fuel tank, re-wired broken fog-light switch
Mubarak resigned, dead streets flooded with crowds and cars within minutes. Carnival atmosphere all evening.

050: Sat 12/2/2011
Day off. Trying to arrange travel on Aswan-Wadi Halfa ferry, not made easier by offices being closed for no reason.

051: Sun 13/2/2011
Day off. Finally booked onto ferry.

052: Mon 14/2/2011
Aswan-Wadi Halfa ferry
19/6709
Accommodation: First class cabin

Sudan

053: Tues 15/2/2011
Arrival at Wadi Halfa, Sudan (trucks still in transit on barge)
Accommodation: Kilopatra Tourism Hotel, Wadi Halfa. Best of a pretty bad bunch – large airy rooms with fans, soggy beds. Mattresses on floor. Internet cafe with high speed connection nearby.
21.7996N, 31.35025E

054: Wed 16/2/2011
Wadi Halfa-20 miles south
22/6731
Accommodation: Wild camping in desert. Great spot, out of sight of road
21.62658N, 31.24397E
Travelling with Jesper and Tanya

055: Thurs 17/2/2011
Wadi Halfa desert – Jebel Barkal Pyramids
373/7104
Accommodation: Wild camping between the pyramids. Not sure it’s strictly legal, but nobody objected.
18.53830N, 31.82318E
Fantastic smooth fast desert roads.

056: Fri 18/2/2011
Jebel Barkal Pyramids – Meroe Pyramids
248/7352
Accommodation: Wild camping at back of pyramids, with permission of tourist police.
16.93383N, 33.75398E

057: Sat 19/2/2011
Meore Pyramids – Khartoum
197/7549
Accommodation: National Camping Residence. Lovely spacious campsite with good facilities. Blue Nile Sailing Club (our intended destination in Khartoum) gone long way downhill, not worth visiting.
15.52463N, 32.56961E

058: Sun 20/2/2011
Day off in Khartoum
25/7574
Spent maintaining truck – brakes on Finn not in good state, got callipers stripped down and re-assembled with new seals.
Oil changes in both trucks.

059: Mon 21/2/2011
Khartoum to Gallabat (border to Ethiopia)
340/7914
Accommodation: Wild camping 20 miles before Gallabat in harvested sugar-cane field. Nice quiet spot, but too many flies.
13.16217N, 35.91460E

Ethiopia

060: Tues 22/2/2011
Gallabat – Gondor, Ethiopia
151/8065
Accommodation: Camping in grounds of Shinah Recreation Centre, open-air cafe/bar in Gondor. Owner, Yonas, never had campers before but very friendly, welcoming and open. Charged whatever we wanted to pay. Toilets v. dirty, but serve beer (+10 points after Sudan).
12.58588N, 37.43445E

061: Wed 23/2/2011
Gondor – Bahir Dar
154/8219
Accommodation: Camping in grounds of Ghion hotel. Overpriced, 40bir/person. Internet provided (very slow – 5kb/s)
11.59693N, 37.38613E

062: Thurs 24/2/2011
Bahir Dar – Lalibela
194/8413
Accommodation: Camping in small, dusty, noisy, cramped carpark of Seven Olives hotel. Overpriced, unpleasant. $10/truck.
Internet provided but broken.
12.03594N, 39.04652E

063: Fri 25/2/2011
Day off in Lalibela
2/8415
Accommodation: Moved to carpark of Mountain View hotel. Spacious, clean, quiet, stunning views. $12/truck.
Internet provided but broken.
12.03862N, 39.03646E

064: Sat 26/2/2011
Lalibela – Kombolcha
166/8581
Accommodation: Carpark of Tekle Hotel. Noisy but in safe compound. 100 bir/truck, no showers. Overpriced.
11.07029N, 39.74303E
Brake failure on Ben on mountain pass, probably boiling brake fluid. Bled and topped up, seems ok. D&V on side of road for Andy before arriving. Everyone feeling rotten.

065: Sun 27/2/2011
Kombolcha – Addis Ababa
244/8825
Accommodation: Wim’s Holland House campsite/bar/guest house. Lovely, welcoming, great spot. Highly recommended. Camping in one of 2 small gardens beside guest house. Wim couldn’t be more friendly.
Internet provided (slow)
9.01003N, 38.75534E
Still ill, no more vomiting.

066: Mon 28/2/2011
Addis Ababa – Dilla
288/9053
Accommodation: carpark of “Get Smart” hotel. Filthy, noisy, only questionably safe, but cheap enough to be ok. Cooked at trucks with audience.
6.3997N, 38.3112E

Kenya

067: Tues 1/3/2011
Dilla – Moyale, Kenya
269/9322
Accommodation: carpark of Catholic Mission (behind Catholic School). No facilities as it isn’t set up for guests, but friendly and welcoming. Spacious, airy and very safe compound. Ask for Father Edward. Donations welcome.
3.5259N, 39.0638E

068: Wed 2/3/2011
Moyale – Marsabit
160/9482
Accommodation: Henry’s Camp. Fantastic campsite outside the hassley town. Locals will try and get money off places in town by taking you to stay there – Henry’s is better, and easy to find (well signposted), whatever they say. Spacious area, shade, covered seating/cooking area, cold beer in a fridge. 300/= per person.
2.3457N, 37.9656E
Horrendous road all day, certainly the worst on this trip so far, hopefully the worst we’ll see. Some damage to trucks.

069: Thurs 3/3/2011
Marsabit – Nairobi
346/9828
Accommodation: Stegan family in Nairobi
Road from Marsabit to Isiolo as bad as yesterday. Radiator leak caused serious overheat of Ben’s engine. Finn lost nearly 10 litres ATF on way into Nairobi. Rooftent mount on Ben broken, spotlights and stereo in Finn broken, suspension all round not as it should be. Crossed equator in dark, didn’t notice.

Tanzania

070: Fri 4/3/2011
Nairobi – Arusha, Tanzania, by bus
Accommodation: William’s Inn. Clean, but lacking good nets, showers etc. OK breakfast provided. 33,000/= per double room (£13)
GPS broken.
Trucks left in Nairobi, Ben on Stegens’ driveway and Finn in garage

071: Sat 5/3/2011
Arusha – Rongai Gate of Kilimanjaro (by bus), then to Simba Camp, Kilimanjaro

072: Sun 6/3/2011
Simba Camp – 2nd Caves Camp, Kilimanjaro

073: Mon 7/3/2011
2nd Caves Camp – Kikelewe Camp, Kilimanjaro

074: Tues 8/3/2011
Kikelewe Camp – Mawenzi Tarn Hut Camp, Kilimanjaro

075: Wed 9/3/2011
Mawenzi Tarn Hut – Kibo Hut Camp, Kilimanjaro

076: Thurs 10/3/2011
Kibo Hut Camp – Gillman’s Point – Uhuru Peak (summit, 6am) – Kibo Hut – Homboro Hut (3700m), Kilimanjaro

077: Fri 11/3/2011
Homoboro Hut – Marangu Gate, Kilimanjaro – Arusha (bus)
Accommodation: William’s Inn, as 4/3/2011

Kenya

078: Sat 12/3/2011
Arusha – Nairobi (bus)
Accommodation: Stegen family
Finn back on their driveway, ATF leak fixed. Very low engine power – turbo doing nothing. Bad clunking from front right suspension.

079: Sun 13/3/2011
Nairobi
19/9847 (to Church and back and out for lunch)
Stripped back air intake system in Finn and found loose EGR valve, allowing turbo boost pressure to escape. Fixed, engine power back.

080: Mon 14/3/2011
Nairobi
42/9889 (chasing round Nairobi for parts)
Attempted to buy new radiator for Ben, did not succeed. Found place that could re-core to original standard, as was done for Finn before we left, but would take 2 days. Picked up Christine, who will spend 1 week with us, and visited MAF Kenya hanger.

081: Tues 15/3/2011
Nairobi – Hell’s Gate National Park
93/9982
Accommodation: Public campsite inside park

082: Wed 16/3/2011
Hell’s Gate – Eldoret (near Kenya-Uganda border)
175/10157
Accommodation: Naiberi Campsite and Lodges
Well worth a stay, very odd place with large luxurious swimming pool, massage parlour, cavernous underground bar/restaurant with built-in rivers and waterfalls and camping spots with private covered cooking areas. Bill Gates stayed here once. Well worth a stop. Not expensive (didn’t record, around $10 pp)
Crossed equator to Northern Hemisphere again.

Uganda

083: Thurs 17/3/2011
Eldoret – Bujagali Falls, Jinja, Uganda
190/10347
Accommodation: Eden Rock Campsite
“Entry” to the falls (permission to walk down the road outside the campsite) costs as much as the campsite. Worth it for the views though, which won’t last long as a new dam is being built. Whitewater rafting available but again, not for much longer. Someone fell in and disappeared while we were there.

084: Fri 18/3/2011
Bujagali Falls – Makindye, near Kampala
92/10439
Accommodation: with Kees Barandse and his wonderful family
Arrived in afternoon, went out for dinner at Coffee At Last in Makindye town

085: Sat 19/3/2011
Makindye
16/10455
Morning spent inspecting brakes and suspension and making a shopping list. Afternoon Chris, Louise and Andy went shopping in Kampala. Managed to get new shocks, radiator (2nd hand), ball joints, ATF, brake fluid, steering arm etc.

086: Sun 20/3/2011
Makindye
17/10472
Fitted new radiator in Ben before church. Seems good. Then Church, coffee with Barandse family, BBQ at hanger in evening.

087: Mon 21/3/2011
Makindye
21/10493
Day spent in hanger working on Ben

088: Tues 22/3/2011
Makindye
19/10512
Day spent in hanger working on Finn

089: Wed 23/3/2011
Makindye
Day off – went on 20 minute pleasure flight in a MAF 206 over Lake Victoria

Rwanda

090: Thurs 24/3/2011
Makindye – Kigali, Rwanda
346/10858
Accommodation: Rowan Seymore’s driveway
Long day of driving, but manageable with early start. Roads towards border on Ugandan side in horrendous condition. Crossed Equator for 3rd (and final) time.

091: Fri 25/3/2011
Kigali – Kibuye, Lake Kivu
94/10952
Accommodation: Hotel Centre Bethany, Presbyterian Church owned retreat on lake shore.
Visited Kigali Genocide Memorial in morning. Managed to buy a new GPS at Union Trade Centre in Kigali!

092: Sat 26/3/2011
Kibuye – Kigali
84/11036
Accommodation: Back at Rowan’s house again

Tanzania

093: Sun 27/3/2011
Kigali – Gieta, south of Lake Victoria, Tanzania
254/11290
Accommodation: Wild camping in dense forest just West of Gieta.
2.9286S, 32.0485E
Ran out of fuel in Finn, had to siphon out of Ben on side of road in tropical downpour. Then refilled both with only fuel available in area, from plastic tubs on side of road.

094: Mon 28/3/2011
Gieta – Ndabaka Gate of Serengeti
180/11470
Accommodation: Last Stop Campsite
2.20255S, 33.86440E
Great place to camp, $10pp, hot water, shade, weaver birds

095: Tues 29/3/2011
Serengeti National Park
101/11571
Accommodation: Public Campsite
2.42166S, 34.85103E
Seen some hippos and stuff

096: Wed 30/3/2011
Serengeti – Ngorongoro Conservation Area – Arusha
236/11807
Accommodation: Stereo Hotel, beside William’s Inn where we stayed the last time. Slightly nicer rooms, but importantly secure covered carpark below the hotel, out of the rain for repacking. 45,000/= (£18) per double, 65,000/= per triple.
3.36774S, 36.68425E

097: Thurs 31/3/2011
Arusha
15/11822
Accommodation: Meserani Oasis Campsite, 15km West of Arusha
3.40623S, 36.50938E
Intended to stay at Meserani Snake Park (recommended by guide book) but found Oasis instead by mistake. Seemed nice enough, so stayed. Large, very simple. Intended entirely as stop-over for organised tours on way to parks. May occasionally be over-run by large tour groups from what we could gather.
New battery for Finn.
Left Ian, Jason and Chris at Stereo Hotel to get bus back to Nairobi. Leg from here to Dar is just Louise and Andy.

098: Fri 1/4/2011
Arusha
Stayed put. Fixed broken rear window mechanism on Ben, replaced clogged fuel filters in Finn.

099: Sat 2/4/2011
Arusha – Moshi
71/11893
Accommodation: Honeybadger Campsite, 5km East of Moshi on road to Dar. $5 pp. Cannot recommend highly enough – fantastic place, shade, quiet, friendly staff with good English help whenever needed but also give peace and space. Good facilities. Massive renovations ongoing, set to improve with swimming pool, new toilet block for camping, etc. Cultural tours/hikes/safaris/treks including Kili can be arranged.
3.35184S, 37.38385E
Short day driving one truck each. Great place to finish.

100: Sun 3/4/2011
Moshi
Stayed put. Re-wired split-charge system in Finn (fault may have contributed to dead battery replaced in Arusha). Did nothing all afternoon and evening.

101: Mon 4/4/2011
Moshi
Went on a tour of the KNCU (Kilimanjaro Native Cooperative Union) “Kahawa Shamba.” Union of 60,000 small scale farmers, runs tourism programme re-investing in local community. Also run small campsite, would be a great place to stay. Go past Key’s Hotel to North East of Moshi, then continue perhaps 10km on dirt roads to the end at a T junction. Turn left, Kahawa Shamba is on the right after 500m. Easy to find.

102: Tues 5/4/2011
Moshi – Lushoto
159/12052
Accommodation: Irente Biodiversity Reserve (locally known as Irente Farm, its old name). 6000/= pp (~£2.50), meals for 5000-6000
One of 3 places in Irente offering camping, based in a working dairy farm/private nature reserve. Peaceful and welcoming, have a small farm shop selling bread, cheese, dairy products and jam. Owned/run by ELCT (Lutheran Church). Turn left just before Lushoto town and follow signs for Irente View for 5 or 6 km up dirt roads. Pass some farm buildings on right, with directions saying to turn right in 400m. At that junction (cross road), viewpoint is on left, farm on right. Viewpoint also offers camping. Ask locals for directions to Irente Farm if lost.
4.79395S, 38.26495E

103: Wed 6/4/2011
Day off in Lushoto

104: Thurs 7/4/2011
Lushoto – Dar es Salaam
243/12295
Accommodation: Staying with Garth Moffat, a friend of Andy’s from MAF days

105: Fri 8/4/2011
Day off in Dar

106: Sat 9/4/2011
Dar – Stone Town, Zanzibar
Accommodation: Malindi Guest House. $40 per room, good value. Half the stated price after some negotiation. Stayed here the night Louise and I got engaged!
(no GPS reception, North end of town near harbour)
Met Henry and Kathie at Dar airport in morning, flew to Zanzibar with them.

107: Sun 10/4/2011
Stone Town – Tamarind Beach Resort, Uroa, Zanzibar
Accommodation: Rather plush beach-front resort, with a rather plush $70/night tag
6.10425S, 39.42634E

108: Mon 11/4/2011
Day off

109: Tues 12/4/2011
Tamarind – Stone Town
Accommodation: Malindi Guest House

110: Wed 13/4/2011
Stone Town, Zanzibar – Dar es Salaam
Accommodation: Garth Moffat’s house, as 7/4

111: Thurs 14/4/2011
Day off in Dar

112: Fri 15/4/2011
Dar es Salaam – Dodoma
295/12590
Accommodation: Camping in MAF Tanzania carpark
6.16882S, 35.75087E
Very wet driving conditions since Uganda. Saw horrendous car crash today, nobody seriously hurt.

113: Sat 16/4/2011
Day off in Dodoma

114: Sun 17/4/2011
Day off in Dodoma

115: Mon 18/4/2011
Dodoma – Mikumi National Park
211/12801
Accommodation: Wild camping near “Malela Nzuri” campsite. Seems to no longer be functioning – found buildings dilapidated with people living in and around them. Still signposted from main road, about 10km before the road enters Mikumi National Park. Lots of lovely opportunities for wild camping though, so took one of them instead, about 10km into a muddy waterlogged track. Great offroading!
6.92562S, 37.30183E

116: Tues 19/4/2011
Mikumi National Park
94/12895
Accommodation: Genesis Mikumi Motel, Snake Park and Campsite, in Mikumi Town. Basically space in a carpark, but perfectly pleasant. Camping kitchen provided – vital in the wet season. Nice bar, $5pp.
7.39705S, 36.99790E

117: Wed 20/4/2011
Mikumi National Park
63/12958

118: Thurs 21/4/2011
Mikumi – Mang’ula Town (entrance to Udzungwa Mountains National Park)
52/13009
Accommodation: Udzungwa Mountain View Hotel & Campsite. Similar to Mikumi.
7.85055S, 36.88642E

119: Fri 22/4/2011
1/13010
Day off trekking in the mountains

120: Sat 23/4/2011
Mang’ula – Morogoro
116/13126
Accommodation: Sofia Hotel, Morogoro. On-street, but guarded, parking. Seemed very secure. Rooms for £10-£15, clean and friendly.
6.82673S, 37.66398E

121: Sun 24/4/2011
Morogoro – Dar es Salaam
143/13269
Accommodation: YMCA guest house. £10 for a double room, breakfast included, clean and quiet. Internet cafe on site.
6.81356S, 39.28742E
Dropped Kathie off at Dar airport in evening. Next 2 weeks with just Henry.
Went to Easter Day service in “Calvary Assemblies of God” – interesting! Some nifty skallywag reached into the window of our car in Dar to try and steel wallet and ipod while his mate distracted us at the back of the car. Fast reactions and much shouting ensured he got nothing.

122: Mon 25/4/2011
Dar es Salaam – Baobab Valley Ruaha River Campsite
236/13505
Accommodation: As above, half way from Mikumi – Iringa. Lovely site but has missed it’s potential by quite a long way. Guidebook describes a site half way through being developed in 1999, it’s now in exactly the same condition in 2011. Best showers since home! Lovely water-front bar area, great surrounding mature baobab woodland. $5pp.
7.52283S, 36.59942E

123: Tues 26/4/2011
Day off at Baobab Valley

124: Wed 27/4/2011
Baobab Valley – Iringa
93/13598
Accommodation: Riverside Campsite. Long established stopover point for anyone on a trip in this part of the word, highly recommended. $6pp.
7.79793S, 35.79670E

125: Thurs 28/4/2011
Day off in Iringa
18/13616
Visited David Moyer. Instructions to his house included “park at campsite, ask directions, walk through coffee plantations, take zipline across Ruaha river, hike up hill, knock on back door.”

Malawi

126: Fri 29/4/2011
Iringa – Malema, Malawi
313/13929
Accommodation: Malema Camp, an odd place set up to house visiting archaeology students from the US and Germany. Lovely bush-camping spot, under massive mango tree. Basic facilities, but very highly recommended. $5pp(?)
10.01986S, 33.92708E

127: Sat 30/4/2011
Malema – Livingstonia
69/13996
Accommodation: Mushroom Farm Campsite. Fantastic spot, but not set up for overland vehicles – had to camp in the carpark, a fair trek from the central area. Somewhere around $5pp.
10.58833S, 34.13610E (turn off from road)

128: Sun 1/5/2011
Day off in Livingstonia
Attended 100 year old Mission church in morning, choir competition in afternoon. Fascinating town, a highlight of the trip so far.

129: Mon 2/5/2011
Day off in Livingstonia. Moved campsite.
2/13998
Accommodation: Lukwe Campsite. Just up road from Mushroom Farm, much better setup for overland 4x4s. GREAT food – splashed out on a steak! Better in all ways.
10.58561S, 34.12799E

130: Tues 3/5/2011
Day off in Livingstonia.

131: Wed 4/5/2011
Livingstonia – Lilongwe
313/14311
Accommodation: Sanctuary Lodge Campsite. Excellent facilities, backs straight onto wildlife sanctuary. Internet hotspot provided – expensive but reasonably good.Hot water, shared bar/restaurant with extremely exclusive lodge. $9pp.
13.97029S, 33.78564E

132: Thurs 5/5/2011
Day off in Lilongwe. Dropped Henry off at airport in the morning, next few days by ourselves.

133: Fri 6/5/2011
Day off in Lilongwe
2/14313
Accommodation: with Steve Roberts, an affable chap with a campsite in his garden.

134: Sat 7/5/2011
Day off in Lilongwe
8/14321

135: Sun 8/5/2011
Day off in Lilongwe

136: Mon 9/5/2011
Lilongwe – Dedza
61/14382
Accommodation: Camping at Dedza Pottery Lodge and Campsite. £2.50pp, internet access through hotspot with poor connection.
14.37150S, 34.30219E

137: Tues 10/5/2011
Day off in Dedza

138: Wed 11/5/2011
Dedza – Ekwendeni
303/14685
Accommodation: Mphatso Nguluwe’s house – director of LISAP (Livingstonia Synod AIDS Programme). Kindly (forceably) took us under her wing. Perhaps the most well-connected person in Malawi.
Picked up Ruth at airport on way past.

139: Thurs 12/5/2011
Day off in Ekwendeni

140: Fri 13/5/2011
Day off in Ekwendeni
28/14713
Fuel shortages – didn’t have enough to get back to Lilongwe and no stations in Mzuzu (the local big town) had any. Managed to persuade two of them to call me when the tanker arrived, which happened this morning. Got there and was 5th in line to get our 140 litres.

141: Sat 14/5/2011
Ekwendeni – Lilongwe
233/14946
Accommodation: Steve Roberts’ campsite, as 6/5/11.
Unable to get fuel in Lilongwe. Argh!

142: Sun 15/5/2011
Picked Simon up at airport
Accommodation: Steve Roberts
Got phone number of fuel station manager to check when it will come in.

143: Mon 16/5/2011
Lilongwe – Cape Maclear
168/15114
Accommodation: Fat Monkeys Campsite. $5 (reduced from $6.50, when we pointed out they had only raised it opportunistically in the 6 months since our guidebook was published!). Very nice spot, good swimming and spectacular snorkelling a short boat trip away. More species of freshwater fish in Lake Malawi than in Europe and North America combined.
14.02377S, 34.84136E
Got fuel in morning – was on forecourt discussing when it might come in when a tanker suddenly pulled in – 1st in line!

144: Tues 17/5/2011
Day off at Fat Monkeys.

Mozambique

145: Wed 18/5/2011
Cape Maclear – Tete, Mozambique
264/15378
Accommodation: Jesus e Bom campsite, on the shore of Zambezi. Hippos kept us awake in the night, despite being inside an enormous industrial city. Stunning views of the only bridge across the Zambezi in Mozambique.
16.15529S, 33.60009E

Zimbabwe

146: Thurs 19/5/2011
Tete, Mozambique – Harare, Zimbabwe
254/15632
Accommodation: Cleaveland Dam Recreation Park Headquarters, inside a secure fenced compound, with armed guards. Which felt very necessary. Leaving Harare at first light tomorrow.
17.84311S, 31.14382E

147: Fri 20/5/2011
Harare – Manapools National Park
257/15889
Accommodation: Public campsite at park HQ. Right on shore of Zambezi, hippos everywhere even before bed. Hyenas all around camp after dark, incredible!
15.71971S, 29.36564E

148: Sat 21/5/2011
Manapools National Park
36/15925

Zambia

149: Sun 22/5/2011
Manapools – Kafue, Zambia
129/16054
Accommodation: Shady Trees Campsite, signposted from main road. Currently a building site, but we needed somewhere to stay. Workers told us price was $15pp (extortionately expensive), we asked to speak to owner in morning. Told boss was away in Botswana, but they were willing to reduce price to $10 (still 3 times what it should be). Suspect money may not be seen by accountant. Not recommended, despite beautiful spot and high potential. Plenty of other options nearby, slightly closer to Lusaka.
15.82814S, 28.25035E

150: Mon 23/5/2011
Kafue – Lusaka
51/16105
Accommodation: Pioneer Campsite. In contrast to last night, stunning site with small chalets, a cottage and plenty of camping space set in shade of large wooded grounds, with beautiful bar, swimming pool etc. $5pp. FREE WIFI! First since Egypt!
15.39544S, 28.45111E

151-155 – to be filled in later. Mostly spent at Pioneer Campsite.

156: Sun 29/5/11
Kafue National Park
Accommodation: Mukambi Lodge campsite. Campsite runs a village for all staff and families, including a highly-talked-of school. Great location, elephants etc wondering through campsite added to that safari feel.
14.97564S, 25.99124E

157: Mon 30/5/11
Kafue N.P. – Lusaka
177/16495
Accommodation: Eureka Campsite. Poor security, over-run with 3 bus-loads (“overland trucks”), loud music. Wouldn’t really recommend. Go to Pioneer instead.
15.50303S, 28.26561E

158: Tues 31/5/11
Lusaka – Siavonga
122/16617
Accommodation: Sandy Beaches Safari Lodge. $7 pp. Seemed like it might be a lovely place normally, but badly flooded by raised lake levels.
15.48555S, 28.66497E

159: Wed 1/6/11
Siavonga
25/16642
Accommodation: Eagle’s Rest Campsite. $12 pp Bit over-priced, ex-pat hangout. Nice bar. Nice hippos.
16.53740S, 28.72773E

160: Thurs 2/6/11
Siavonga – Lusaka
133/16775
Accommodation: Pioneer Campsite, as 23/5/11

161: Fri 3/6/11
Lusaka. Dropped Simon at airport.

162: Sat 4/6/11
Lusaka – Monze (half way to Vic Falls)
127/16902
Picked up Aaron and Katherine at airport before short drive in afternoon
Accommodation: Moorings Campsite, Monze. Farm-run site, profits invested into primary and secondary schools, adult education, craft co-ops etc for farm staff. 30,000ZK ($6) pp.

163: Sun 5/6/11
Monze – Livingstone
199/17101
Accommodation: Maramba River Lodge. $10 pp. Only site in Livingstone allowing car-top camping. Decent spot with good views over Maramba river. Elephants on far bank, hippos in water.

164: Mon 6/6/11
Victoria Falls

Botswana

165: Tues 7/6/11
Livingstone – Kasane, Botswana
67/17168
Accommodation: Thebe River Lodge Campsite. Decent enough spot, bit boring. 77 Pula pp (£7.70). Large plots with covered cooking areas etc. Aimed at large groups, but good privacy. No advantage taken of river-front location: fenced off marsh area. Very helpful with vehicles needing some TLC – on-site mechanics helped get it sorted.
17.78601S, 25.18259E

166: Wed 8/6/11
Kasane – Chobe National Park
67/17235
Accommodation: Ihaha Camp. $35pp, plus 120 pula (£12, $20)pp park entrance. Fantastic campsite, large plots riverside with animals wondering through.

167: Thurs 9/6/11
Chobe NP – Kasane
52/17287
Met up with Conor and Louise, couple we first met in Malawi, going the same way as us with backpacks.
Accommodation: Thebe, as 7/6

168: Fri 10/6/11
Kasane. Radiator problems prevented leaving! (see comments 7/6)

169: Sat 11/6/11
Kasane – Nata
215/17502
Accommodation: Nata Bird Sanctuary Campsite. 35 Pula (£3.50) pp, community run, with hot showers despite what the guides say. Good site.
20.28771S, 26.30031E

170: Sun 12/6/11
Nata – Maun
217/17719
Accommodation: Audi Camp, just outside Maun. Open and airy spot, with large plots and BBQ stands. Also tried Old Bridge – cramped, loud and difficult to find space for a car. Good bar there though.
19.93420S, 23.50926E

171: Mon 13/6/11
Okavango Delta
2/17721
2 day mokoro (dug-out canoe) trip organised through Old Bridge campsite. Can not recommend highly enough.
19.77829S, 23.35714E

172: Tues 14/6/11
Audi Camp
2/17723

173: Wed 15/6/11
Maun – Tsodilo Hills
251/17974
Accommodation: Tsodilo Hills Campsite. Free, recently built with some grant or other, already dilapidated through lack of maintenance. Disgustingly filthy, wouldn’t recommend despite price. Only place to stay though.
18.75953S, 21.73634E

Namibia

174: Thurs 16/6/11
Tsodilo Hills – Popa Falls, Namibia
74/18048
Accommodation: Rainbow Campsite. N$70 (£7) pp. Official “Popa Falls Campsite” rip-off, wanted to charge us to even see the site before we decided if we wanted to camp. Told them where to go. Rainbow reasonably new, pleasant spot but very loud music till very late. Free fast WIFI.
18.11215S, 21.58996E

175: Fri 17/6/11
Popa Falls – Grootfontein
260/18308
Accommodation: Roy’s Rest Camp. N$90 (£9) pp. Rather bizarre but endearing rustic Texas-style place. Very welcoming and comfortable.
19.23305S, 18.49868E

176: Sat 18/6/11
Grootfontein – Swakopmund
463/18771
Accommodation: Desert Sky Backpackers campsite. N$100 (£10) pp. Great spot with camping kitchen (very needed with cold and wind), good facilities. No internet.
22.68155S, 14.52794E

177: Sun 19/6/11
Swakopmund – day off

178: Mon 20/6/11
Swakopmund – Skeleton Coast and Cape Cross Seal Reserve

179: Tues 21/6/11
Swakopmund – sand boarding

180: Wed 22/6/11
Swakopmund – day off

181: Thurs 23/6/11
Swakopmund – Windhoek
232/19003
Accommodation: Cardboard Box Backpackers. Only campsite allowing 4×4 camping in Windhoek. Fantastic place, friendly staff, great bar/restaurant but quiet camping area, very central. Toilets on the shady side though. Free fast WIFI.
22.56253S, 17.07541E

182: Fri 24/6/11
Windhoek. Dropped Aaron and Katherine at airport.

183: Sat 25/6/11
Windhoek. Day off.

184: Sun 26/6/11
Windhoek. Picked up Adrian and Leanne, went to choir performance in evening.

185: Mon 27/6/11
Windhoek – near Etosha National Park
355/19358
Accommodation: Sachsenheim Guest Farm. Effectively an overflow for the campsites just inside and just outside the park, this is 20km away and vastly cheaper, but no different. Not fantastic, but half the price of the alternatives.
18.74711S, 17.26092E

186: Tues 28/6/11
Ethosha NP
115/19473
Accommodation: Halali Camp. Officially “full,” receptionist threw a tantrum, then told us to pick any site. Far from capacity. Fake “watering hole” with floodlights and amphitheatre seating provided a zoo-like atmosphere beside the tourist resort (complete with swimming pool, fuel station etc). Fully fenced, totally isolated from the park. Dull and uninteresting, but there are no other options in the park.
19.03668S, 16.47096E

187: 29/6/11
Etosha NP
73/19546
Accommodation: Okaukuejo Camp. Similar to last night. “Full” again, put up in a “special” (ie unserviced) spot – just a plot among the others but without electricity or BBQ stand.
19.18074S, 15.91811E

188: 30/6/11
Etosha NP – Windhoek
274/19820
Accommodation: Cardboard Box, as 23/6

189: 1/7/11
Windhoek – near Naukluft mountains
198/20018
Accommodation: Tsauchab River Camp. N$100 (£10) pp. Family farm run site, plots separated by several kms from each other. Felt like we had the hillsides to ourselves. Private toilets, showers etc.
24.44948S, 16.16885E

190: 2/7/11
Tsauchab River Camp. Walked the Olive Trail in the mountains.

191: 3/7/11
Naukluft Mountains – Sessriem
132/20150
Drove in to see Sossusvlei and Deadvlei in the morning.
Accommodation: Sessriem Campsite. N$125 (£12.50) plus N$80 entry fees pp. Got one of the original 10 spots under/around a large tree – has since expanded with 30+ new, and less interesting, pitches. We loved it.
24.48530S, 15.79624E

192: 4/7/11
Sessriem – Aus
217/20367
Accommodation: Aus Garage Campsite. N$60 (£6) pp, small site managed by, and across road from, the garage and filling station, which is the focal point of the tiny railway-station town. Showers score 100%.
26.66666S, 16.26027E

193: 5/7/11
Aus – Luderitz – Aus
184/20551
Visited abandoned diamond mining town, Kolmanskop, near Luderitz

194: 6/7/11
Aus – Fish River Canyon
174/20726
Accommodation: Hobas campsite. N$100 (£10) pp. Over priced and pretty boring, with no hot water. Typical for NWR (Namibia Wildlife Resorts – the national cock-up of a tourist agency). Good view points over the canyon, but they’ve made it illegal to go for day walks into it, for no good reason other than that they can.
27.62005S, 17.71442E

195: 7/7/11
Fish River Canyon: Day off

196: 8/7/11
Hobas – Ai-Ais
60/21283
Accommodation: Ai-Ais NWR. N$125 (£12.50) pp. Another NWR resort, this one bigger and worse – multiple swimming pools, packed to the hilt with South Africans. Tyre repair service did a bad job on a spare (gave up the next day). Petrol station, tourist shops, spa, blah blah blah.
27.91564S, 17.49052E

South Africa

197: 9/7/11
Ai-Ais – Paarl
497/21283
Nearly there!
Accommodation: Dave and Vicky Emmersion, friends from Glasgow.

198: 10/7/11
Paarl – Cape Augilhas – Paarl
290/21573
Made it!

199: 11/7/11
6/21579
Packing

200: 12/7/11
5/21584
Shipping 100kg home

201: 13/7/11
Paarl – Cape Town
46/21630
Accommodation: The rather magnificent, and off-peak priced, Mandela Rhodes Place Hotel. Somewhere around £100 per room. Unparalleled luxury and professional, welcoming staff.
33.92363S, 18.41940E

202: 14/7/11
Cape Town
Picked up Michael and later Mü (Müreal) from airport, dealt with paperwork to transfer ownership of Finn and Ben to Michael, who will drive them back to Moorings Farm, Zambia (see 4/6).

203: 15/7/11
Cape Town – Somalia
Accommodation: Emirates B777, economy class.

204: 16/7/11
Somalia – Dubai
Accommodation: Coral Oriental Hotel, Dubai. around £40 per room. Boring 4* business hotel with remarkably unhelpful jobsworth staff.
25.27603S, 55.31361E

205: 17/7/11
Dubai. Stayed in room all day. 49°C, 95% humidity.

206: 18/7/11
Dubai. Took a “Big Bus” tour of the city. Modern-day Babel.

207: 19/7/11
Carrickfergus.