Let me introduce you to…

When we arrived back from SurfingAfrica, just over a year ago, we left behind Finn & Ben, but brought home another little “Finn” – a bump, at that stage just over a month old.


Ruth Jane Simpson, born 25th February 2012

In February “Finn,” a.k.a. Project Number 3, became Ruth. With P#1 complete, P#2 is now also nearing completion – a new house on Louise’s parents’ farm.

Finn and Ben live on in Zambia, now owned by Michael and Tatjana at Moorings Farm, between Lusaka and Vic Falls. If you’re ever there, send them all our love.

Little Finn (a.k.a. the Turnip) continues to thrive, and will no doubt grow embarrassed in years to come by the implications of her antenatal nick-name.

As for this site, in a week or two I’ll close the comments and lock down the data-base, but will leave it here as long as I can afford the renewal fees. The shear number of people who’ve found the site and contacted us, used the travel log to plan their own stays, or simply let us inspire them has been a rewarding in itself, and an absolute privilege.

Who knows, the next post may be a link to another adventure – DiscoAsia anyone?

SurfingAfrica – Watch the film

Finally uploaded for your viewing pleasure, a short documentary/film about our entire trip. I recommend watching in HD 720p (see the cog at the bottom right), the default quality is pretty naff.

I’ve got a stack of DVDs with this and a few other unseen clips as well, if you’d like one let me know.

Edit (April 2018): The film above was blocked by Youtube, after more than 7 years, due to Universal Music deciding they didn’t want their music used in it after all. I’ve remade the film with a few minor edits and re-uploaded. Sorry for for the down-time!

One Day in the Life

Hello again. Seems like a while since I put this video together, but what with bad internet connections, crashing software and over-zealous music labels blocking the original music, it’s taken a while for it to see the light of day. Note that it’s available in HD – once you click play, click on the “360p” at the bottom of the video, select 720p, hit full screen and enjoy.

We made it!

After a 9 hour day, including the 4th puncture on Namibian roads in 5 days, we arrived in Paarl, 50km East of Cape Town, on Saturday evening, where we’re kindly being put up by Dave and Vicky and their two lovely kids.

One final stretch of Namibian dirt road, on final puncture

On Sunday, we took a jaunt down to Cape Augilhas, the southern most point of Africa, and the symbolic end-point of our trip.

Ben and Finn are to be sold to a couple in Zambia to start new lives as rental vehicles. We’re spending a few days relaxing with Adrian and Leanne, and Dave and Vicky, and sorting out 101 logistical things to end a trip like this (buying suitcases, shipping home 100kg of tools and equipment, buying new tyres, valeting the trucks…).

Sitting on the rocks at Cape Augilhas. We used a compas to ensure we were at the exact southern end.

All the images from this diary are available to view in a Picasa web album, and all the videos are on my youtube page – feel free to browse. We will post a couple more videos and, once we’ve had time to settle in back home, we will post some concluding comments and thoughts about the trip.

For now, it’s enough to say that it has been probably the most rewarding experience of our lives, that we are delighted and chuffed to bits to have made it. For those reading this who are thinking of or planning similar trips, go for it. It’s easier than you think once you’re on the road.

It was Sunday, and the shop was unlicensed, so the champaign we squirted around was non-alcoholic. Which meant we could swig what was left from the neck before driving home

Fish River Canyon

Despite the name, I was oddly surprised when we passed a sign with the river’s name on it: “Fish.”

We spent three nights around the canyon. There was only enough to see or do for one, but as our last stop before Cape Town, we wanted to relax, unwind and fix 2 of the 3 punctures we’d received in the last 4 days (the first of the entire trip, not counting the knifing in Harare). The Third? It was beyond repair:

This puncture happened about a mile before we stopped, but was masked by the rough road. The back of the car is often hidden in a cloud of dust from the driver. It was the water temperature gradually increasing that actually alerted Adrian that something was wrong.

The canyon was spectacular, being one of the deepest anywhere. There’s a 5 day hike along its length, which is reputed to be one of the best hikes of its kind in the world. Perhaps we should have left a couple more days and attempted it?

Andy and Louise overlooking Fish River Canyon

As an interesting ps – ten points to anyone who can correctly identify what is going on here.

Mystery photo (did you think it would tell you what was happening?)

Kolmanskop

The southern shore of Namibia is a rich diamond mining area. For 100km from the coast, it is a closed zone, with entry only permitted to certain areas, normally with an escort.

The architect, manager and other bosses had enormous houses overlooking the whole town.

Entire houses in Kolmanskop are filling with sand over time   Entire houses in Kolmanskop are filling with sand over time

One exception is the old diamond mining town of Kolmanskop, first inhabited around 100 years ago and fully abandoned, when the current larger town further into the region was completed, about 50 years ago.

Stairs being reclaimed by the sand   60 year old Weet-bix anyone?   This tap didn

The town has been preserved by the dry weather and lack of footsteps, but is steadily being taken over by the desert.

Peeling paint   Deteriorating, but complex, interior decor in Kolmanskop

On the way home, we took a quick detour to Halifax Island. Which is famous for one thing and one thing only: penguins. Although they were a long way away, the sight of small waddling animals, like a huddle of railway controllers shuffling around in the gale, was unmistakable.

Penguins on Halifax Island, Namibia

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Sossusvlei Oasis

Oryx (aka gemsbok) in the Namib desert   Namib dunes

Dune-climbing lizards abound

If ever you try to hold a picture of a desert oasis in your mind, Sossusvlei would pretty much match it.

Sossusvlei textures   Sossusvlei textures   Sossusvlei textures

Sossusvlei textures   Sossusvlei textures   Sossusvlei textures

Once in 10 years, the Tsauchab River flows this deep into the Namib desert, and fills the “vleis” (pans) with water. 500 years ago, dunes drifted across the entrance to the old pan, blocking the water from accessing it regularly enough to sustain the trees that live on the deep ground-water. The result is Deadvlei.

Trees in Deadvlei   Water in Hiddenvlei

This year has seen a freak heavy rainfall in Southern Africa – far more even than the regular 10 year cycle. Although now several months after the rains, several of the pans still hold water. Ducks swim happily in the desert, with abundant large mammal life of jackals, oryx, springbok and various cats (identified only by prints). Even Deadvlei had seen water again for the first time in a generation, although it was dry again by the time of our visit.

A jackal coming down to drink at Sossusvlei